Dresden City Guide: Art, History & Surprising Charm

Before this city trip, I had never heard of Dresden. Choosing our destination went like this: my husband and I got a weekend away without the kids. I managed to score tickets for the night train and looked up which destination would make the most of our travel time. And that was Dresden — the perfect city to explore in a weekend.

Dresden is quite a small city, which means you can see a lot in 48 hours. But I’m sure it’s also a great place for a longer stay. The city is surrounded by charming villages and nature reserves, and it’s only a few hours by train or car from Prague in the Czech Republic and Leipzig in Germany. Curious about our trip on the night train? Read here about our experience with the European Sleeper.

Day 1: Churches in Dresden and the Neustadt

On the first day, you’ll arrive hungry after the long train ride. Start your morning with breakfast at the cozy Wilma Wunder. The breakfast menu has something for everyone — delicious! One important thing to know: in Dresden, you really need to make a reservation if you want to eat somewhere. That applies to all restaurants mentioned in this blog, especially during weekends.

Your first investment after that wonderful breakfast: a public transport ticket. Dresden isn’t huge, but you’ll easily walk many kilometers. With that ticket, head to Garnisonkirche St. Martin — a beautiful church and the perfect starting point to explore Neustadt. It’s free to visit and definitely worth it for its stunning stained-glass windows.

Next, continue on foot to Dresden’s Kunsthofpassage — a series of charming alleys with the most imaginative façades. You’ll find plenty of small, unique shops here. If you’re visiting on a weekend, make sure to go on Saturday, because all shops in Dresden are closed on Sundays. A perfect pit stop is Schokoladenbar for a cup of rich hot chocolate and a sweet pastry. At the back, there’s a sunny terrace overlooking the Kunsthofpassage.


Historical buildings and museums

From the Kunsthofpassage, walk to the indoor Neustädter Markthalle, filled with cozy eateries and special stalls. In the basement, you’ll find a flea market — or as the Germans beautifully call it, Trödelmarkt. You can find the dates here.

Then continue towards Altstadt — the old town. You’ll pass some larger chain stores, but the best part is crossing the Augustus Bridge for a beautiful view. If your feet are tired, you can also take public transport from here to Altstadt.

Walk along the Brühlsche Terrasse and past the Fürstenzug to get a great first impression of Dresden’s historic center. Though, it’s not that “old” — Dresden has a tragic war history. In 1945, it was almost completely bombed to the ground. Many historical buildings were reconstructed in the years that followed into what you see today — a tragic yet hopeful story.

Another highlight for history lovers is the Residenzschloss (or Dresden Castle). I’m usually a bit skeptical about museums in smaller cities, but this one is absolutely worth a visit. My favorite parts were the rooms with historical clothing, the Turkish Chamber featuring a gigantic 18th-century tent (enthusiastically explained by our guide 🙂), and the palace halls with beautifully painted ceilings.

Time for dinner! We ended the day at the wonderful Italian restaurant Mamma Mia. The food was absolutely delicious, and the setting super cozy. A restaurant we wished we could take home with us! We had amazing pasta, and don’t skip dessert — it’s worth it 🙂


Day 2: Up High

A new day, new beautiful views. In the morning, take the tram to the Schwebebahn, a historic suspension railway. It takes you up to a stunning view over the city — and the ride itself is quite an experience. The tram is beautifully maintained; it feels like stepping back in time. There’s a ride every 15 minutes, tickets can be bought from the machine at the station. Early birds also enjoy a peaceful ride up.

This part of the city is also worth exploring — with lots of cafés and small shops. Again: shops are closed on Sundays, so plan accordingly 🙂

Next stop: the Dresdner Molkerei. The shop has been around since 1892 and proudly calls itself the most beautiful dairy shop in the world — and rightfully so. Even if you’re not into dairy, it’s worth a visit. They now also offer a small range of vegan products.

Lunch at Café Milchmädchen (yes, still on theme!). This might just be the trendiest breakfast and lunch spot in the city. Again: book your table in advance. And don’t be fooled by the name — there are plenty of vegan options.

The Most Beautiful Church

Now it’s time for one of the highlights of your Dresden city trip: the Frauenkirche. The pastel colors of this church make you feel like you’ve already found your place in heaven. Entry is free, but you can also pay to climb the tower via a separate entrance. Don’t miss the crypt, where you’ll find a baptismal font created by artist Anish Kapoor.

Afterwards, enjoy a final stroll through Dresden’s Altstadt. Dinner at The Loft, a Greek restaurant, is the perfect way to end your trip — delicious food and generous portions, ideal for the food lovers among us.

Then it’s time to head back to the station for the night train home. Fun fact: on your way out of the city, you’ll see the Yenidze building. It looks like a mosque but was actually a former cigarette factory. The owner wanted a striking building to promote his brand — and voilà! Today it’s used as a restaurant and event space, with performances often held under the dome.


Hotel in Dresden

We stayed at the Dorint Hotel Dresden — a great choice because:

  • just outside the city center, so very affordable
  • very clean
  • spacious rooms with large beds
  • super friendly staff
  • and a breakfast buffet you could sue them for — because you’ll definitely overeat! Think: all the basics, smoothies, a pancake machine, an egg chef, and amazing tea. Book the breakfast — it’s absolutely worth it.

More Time?

Staying longer in Dresden or just a very fast traveler? Then consider a trip to Bad Schandau, a nearby town surrounded by nature, with stunning views and great cafés.

Looking for more inspiration for your next city trip? Check out my favorite city destinations here.

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